rostitchery

chloe toes diaper pattern

rating:  HIGHLY RECOMMENDED

about a year ago, i got a cute pocket diaper in a swap with my friend catharine.  i had seen her diapers in pictures but this was the first time i had seen one in person and i fell in love with it.  i liked the way it fit, i liked the materials, and i liked the construction which was unique to anything i had seen before.  catharine has now published her chloe toes diaper pattern, and i couldn't wait to come here and tell you all about it.

the pattern package includes the pattern page itself, with patterns for preemies thru XXL (under 7lbs thru 35 pounds and up), and a 14 page instruction booklet.  there are directions for fitted diapers, AIO's, pocket diapers, and swim diapers, plus lots of information on materials, waterproofing methods, and care instructions.

i chose to make the pocket diaper, and i love it!  i used PUL outer that i bought from sherrie at the sewingsupplycoop at yahoo, powedry inner that i bought from wazoodle, diaper FOE that i also bought from sewingsupplycoop, and size 20 poly resin snaps that i bought from wendy at the snap store.  (for soakers i use microfiber shop towels that i get in packages from the local sam's club, but you have to read the package carefully--you want the kind that say they absorb LIQUID, not the kind that say they grab dust.) 

now that i have tested the pattern and i know the size i chose is right, i will cut it out of tag board so all i have to do is trace around it directly on the fabric--that way i don't have to worry about accidentally shaving the edge of the pattern with my rotary cutter and i think i will be able to fit many diapers on a yard by puzzling them tightly together. but i won't get to complete any more diapers until my refill of snaps comes in.  (in this photo you can barely see the two marks at the center front of the diaper, where i ran out of sockets.)

what i liked about this pattern:

• sewing instructions are thorough.  she explains each step in detail, in simple language that even a beginning seamstress can understand.
• photos accompany almost every step, they are clear and show exactly what you are to do.
• the size i made was spot on, and the other sizes seem comparable to the sizes ella wore at those weight ranges.
• the list of materials needed was realistic and complete, including information on how to make up for the stud-to-socket imbalance.
• the pocket diaper is listed as a 30 minute project and this was accurate for me, including setting the snaps.

what i had trouble with:

• the lines for each size on the pattern are very similar, so it was a little confusing in some places.  i ended up drawing over the size i needed with a colored pencil so i could see it more clearly.
• the instructions for the pocket diaper referred to dot markings on edges, but the pattern has notches on the edges.  possibly the assumption is that the seamstress will use dots to mark the notch placement?
• the marks at the back of the diaper are unclear--there are two sets:  one is notches, the other is hashes.  the sets are side by side, less than 1/4" apart so neither seemed more critical.  i couldn't find reference to either specifically so i just chose the notches for consistency.
• sewing the FOE is simple, but the markings for the stretch areas got lost under the FOE as i approached them, so i ended up marking further away from the edge using chalk.

i made two variations on this diaper, one with the snaps covered on the inside (so they don't touch the baby's skin), and one with velcro.  these are also very satisfactory but my favorite is still the first one.  the snap placement means that the soaker can't go all the way to the front edge of the diaper but realistically, i change my child often enough that the front of the soaker never gets wet anyway.  if your child is a heavy wetter, you might want a longer soaker area, in which case you would benefit from the hidden snap variation.

i highly recommend this pattern.  if you don't have the time or inclination to make them for yourself, catharine also have some fitteds, AIO's, and pocket diapers for sale at chloe toes boutique.  and she makes hers in cute fabrics, unlike the boring but useful white that i always use.  :)

twist top with a twist

yes, this IS a nursing top!  it is a variation of the overlap nursing top that i love so much.  but you don't have to make it with a nursing access--i'll explain how to make it with and without.

start with a t-shirt pattern and make one copy of the front piece.  you will be making more pattern copies as you go, so keep your pattern paper handy.  (NOTE--copy only the pattern--not the seam allowances!  you add those back on when you finish making your pattern).

on this first copy, you are going to draw your empire style line.  measure down the front of your body from your neck to a point directly between your breasts.  mark this point on the pattern center front line.  also place a mark on the side seam about 4 inches down from the underarm point.  join these two marks with a gentle curve.  the exact shape of your curve depends on your bust size--the larger your bust cup, the more your line should curve.  the little mark in the middle of this pattern piece indicates the bust point.  (click on any image to see an enlargement).

cut the pattern apart along this line and set aside the top half for now.

make a copy of the lower pattern.  if you are making a non-nursing top, save the original--it will be your lower bodice pattern.  draw a line parallel to the top edge, 3-4 inches down, and cut this section off.  this will be the part that twists.  discard the rest of this copy.

now--pay close attention.  :)  take the piece you just cut off and flip it from left to right. join it to the upper pattern piece along the center front line so that the bottom edges meet.

all you have to do now is create a neckline and smooth out the bottom edge.  just draw a smooth line from the shoulder to the center front where it meets the tie, and make the bottom edge curvy at the center.

if you are going to make your top without nursing access, your patterns are all done!  for those who want to make the nursing access, continue thusly:

make another copy of the original front pattern and place a mark in the same place as your first center front mark.  now draw a gentle curve from the underarm to this point.  the lower portion is your underlay.  discard the upper section.

make the back neckline as desired--i've left it as a jewel neck on these patterns, but i've made tops with v-neck and with scoop neck and like both of these very much.

when you have finished all your pattern work, you should have an upper bodice piece, a lower bodice piece, a bodice back, and sleeves (if desired).

nursing pattern set (plus sleeves, if desired):

non-nursing pattern set:

add seam allowances and hem allowances (if making the nursing version, do not add anything to the top edge of the underlay--mark your pattern so you'll remember!).

to make your top, you will need some stretch fabric, matching thread, and for the nursing version you'll need some 1/4" elastic.

for both the nursing and non-nursing versions, cut two upper front bodices, one lower front bodice on the fold, one back bodice on the fold and two sleeves (if desired).

sew the upper bodice pieces to the back piece at the shoulders.  finish the neck edge all the way to the end of the ties.

wrap the ties around each other ONCE so they twist together at the center.  the right tie will now be pointing to the right, and the left tie will now be pointing to the left.  sew the raw edges of the ties to the bottom edge of the upper bodice.  there will be a small section at the center that you cannot sew because of the twist.

for the non-nursing version:  gather the ends of the ties as desired, and baste to hold.  sew the upper bodice to the lower bodice--again, the twist will prevent you from sewing all the way to the center.  set in sleeves (or finish armholes).  close side seams, catching the ends of the ties in the seam.  hem.

for the nursing version:  apply elastic to the top edge of the underlay, stretching elastic slightly as you sew.  lay the upper bodice over the lower bodice, matching the underarm points.  gather the ends of the ties as desired then baste sides together.  hand tack the center of the underlay to the underside of the twist.  the rest of the underlay top edge is left free.

set in sleeves (or finish armholes).  close side seams, catching the ends of the ties in the seam.  hem.

that's it!  you'll be pleasantly surprised how quickly this top goes together.

to nurse, all you do is lift the twist section and pull down the lower bodice (please forgive the close-up of my hand--there is only so much you can do when one hand is busy flashing your fancy nursing bra).

this outfit is actually part of a mommy/daughter set that i cut out last summer.  i made ella's outfit the day after cutting it, but i didn't finish mine until about two weeks ago.  this past weekend, ella stood up from the dinner table, held out her dress, and announced to everybody in the restaurant, "see my pretty dress?  mama made it for me!"  i could have cried with joy.

*all the pattern images in this post were created with the software i use to teach patternmaking at fashion design online. 

overlap nursing top

this is one of my favorite nursing tops, i made it from the curtains that i made for the room that became ella's room (before ella, it was a catch-all room).  this is one of the simplest nursing tops to make and to use.  it looks like an ordinary empire waistline top, but the secret is that the upper and lower portions are separate--to nurse your child, all you do is lift the upper portion and pull down the lower portion.  no slits!  no snaps!  nothing but easy access and great style.   (click any image to see an enlargement):

even a beginning seamstress can make this top.  and once you get your pattern worked out, you can make one of these in less than an hour.

start with a basic t-shirt pattern. 

make two copies of the front pattern.  (NOTE:  copy only the pattern itself--not the seam allowances!  you add those back on when you finish making your pattern).

to make the upper bodice/overlay pattern, measure from your shoulder, right where it meets your neck, down the front of your body to wherever you want your empire waistline.  mark this distance on one copy of your front pattern. 

slash across your pattern at this level, from side seam thru center front.  the upper portion will be your overlay.  discard the lower section.

on the other copy, slash the pattern from the underarm point thru the center front line.  the lower portion will be the bodice underlay.  discard the upper section.

you can make whatever neckline you wish.  i am partial to a scoop neck for front and back, but feel free to use the shape you want.

add a casing allowance to the bottom edge of the overlay.  leave the upper edge of the underlay as is (no seam allowance--mark your pattern so you'll remember!).  add seam allowances to the rest of the edges.

the back pattern remains as is.

to sew your top:

you'll need stretch fabric, matching thread, and some 1/4" wide elastic.

apply elastic to the top edge of the underlay, stretching very slightly.  turn up the casing on the bottom of the overlay and stitch, then insert a piece of elastic that is 1"-2" shorter.  baste the ends so they don't slip.  lay the overlay on top of the underlay, right sides up, matching at the underarms. baste together at the side seams and treat as one.

stitch front to back at the shoulders.  set in sleeves (or finish armholes), close side seams, finish neckline and hem(s).

TADA!  now go out and nurse your baby!

*all the pattern images used in this post were created with the software i use to teach patternmaking at fashion design online. 

shoe school revisited

some friends wanted to learn to make soft children's shoes like the ones i used to make for ella, so this morning i hosted another shoe school.  i taught them how to take the child's foot measurements, how to draft the pattern, then they cut and sewed shoes!

one of these friends was at the first shoe school i taught--she was very pregnant then--that baby is now 18 months old!

click any picture to see an enlargement.

shoes made of fleece outers, flannel lining, and denim soles:

shoes made of leather outers and soles (no lining):

and the newly-minted cobblers themselves:

now click here to see the leather shoes in action!

i'm thinking on making this a regular event--maybe four times a year--because i have so much fun being in the presence of people who are making things for their kids.  they bring a much different spirit to the cutting table, one that infuses the work with a very special love.

BTW, the pictures don't do the shoes justice--they are really really good.  you would not be able to tell they were handmade.